How to clean and care for steel BDSM furniture

Less work than a wooden table

Powder-coated steel needs less looking after than almost anything else in a bedroom. It doesn't need oiling or polishing, and it doesn't absorb spills. What it does need is the right cleaner, a dry cloth at the end, and the occasional check that its fixings are tight.

Cleaning, part by part

Wipe with a soft cloth wrung out in warm water and a little washing-up liquid, then dry. Work from the top down so drips land on parts you haven't cleaned yet.

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Frame and rails

Joints and corners

Dust and moisture gather where parts meet. Use a soft brush, or a cloth wrapped round a fingertip, and dry thoroughly afterwards.

Laser-cut headboards

A soft, dry brush lifts dust from the pattern. For marks, use a barely damp cloth and dry the edges of each cut-out.

Rings

These are handled most, so clean them after every use.

Wipe each ring with the same soapy cloth as the frame, then dry it, paying attention to the inside where cuffs and rope rub. If the coat has worn through at a ring, contact us before it's used again.

Hinges, hasps and bolts

If a cage hinge starts to squeak, a drop of light machine oil on a cloth, worked into the hinge and wiped off, is enough. Keep oil off the powder coat, and wipe bolt heads dry after cleaning.

Rope and soft restraints

Rope, cuffs and straps need more care than the frame they're tied to. Natural rope such as jute and hemp shouldn't be machine washed: brush it, air it, and replace it once it's frayed, stiff or stained. Synthetic rope can usually be hand washed and dried flat. Our guide to which rope works best with a steel frame covers caring for each type of rope.

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Leather cuffs and collars want a damp cloth, a dry cloth and an occasional leather conditioner, and they should dry away from radiators. Fabric restraints follow the care label. Keep everything in a closed drawer or box between uses, away from the frame, so buckles and clips don't mark the coat.

Between sessions

Wipe the frame down after each use and let it dry fully before covering it or making the bed. Before reaching for anything stronger than soap, read our answer on bleach and disinfectant on powder coat. Wash fabric restraints, linen and towels according to their labels.

A monthly inspection

Five minutes once a month is enough to catch anything early. Do it in good light.

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• Every bolt is tight. Don't overtighten.
• The frame stands level and doesn't rock when you push it gently.
• Tie points, hinges and hasps feel solid and haven't moved.
• Welds look the same as the day it arrived, with no cracks or rust at the edges.
• The coat is whole, especially at the feet, welded rings and door edges.
• Wall or floor fixings, if any, are still firm.

If anything moves that shouldn't, stop using the piece and contact us. Don't use it again until it's been checked.

Moving a frame

Don't drag a frame across the floor: it marks the floor and the feet. Lift it with enough people for its weight, or take it apart following the assembly instructions, and re-tighten every fixing once it's back in place.

Storing a piece

Clean and dry it fully first. Wrap it in breathable fabric rather than plastic, which can trap moisture against the steel, and keep it somewhere dry and above freezing.

Damp, heat and sunlight

A dry, ventilated room is the best home for any steel furniture. In cellars and other damp spaces, a dehumidifier protects the frame and everything around it. Keep heaters and open flames a sensible distance away.

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For indoor use only.

When to get in touch

Contact us if the finish chips through to bare metal, a fixing won't tighten, or a frame moves in a way it didn't on delivery. Send a photograph and your order number and we'll tell you what to do next.